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Knitspired: Diamonds are a girl's best friend
I couldn't turn down a chance to use that as a title, it just had to be done. In fact, after my interview with Anne, I got to thinking. Of course, her book is a fantastic reference and I would suggest knitters interested in Argyle get a copy. But I also wanted learn more and to see what other knitters were doing with this technique. So I decided to do a little hunting.
First off, for our history buffs out there (yes, I know they were outvoted in the last poll, too bad), it turns out unsurprisingly that the technique comes from Argyll, Scotland, where the design was devised from the Clan Campbell tartan. Wikipedia has it dated to "at least" the 17th century, but between you and me and the blog, I'd bet it goes back even further than that as colorwork is one of the oldest forms of knitting - as proven by surviving samples from the 12th century. If you're interested in the history of knitting/ or colorwork, A History of Knitting by Richard Rutt is an absolute must.
Second, Argyle is a form of intarsia, a colorwork technique similar to tapestry weaving. Instead of carrying two colors across a row, sections of the piece are knit with one color then the next. Where the two colors touch, they are twisted together. Traditionally, Argyle is knit with three colors - two as the main diamond colors and a third accent diagonal color that is usually embroidered or duplicate stitched. The Italians call this the "kiss and run". No joke, I learned that in a tapestry class.
And, finally, there are patterns and a few tutorials to be found. As Anne said in her interview, learning from an instructor is usually easier for most - but not essential. I taught myself to knit intarsia and Argyle three years after learning to knit... using Stitch 'n' Bitch as a reference. If you're out there alone in a vast wilderness of nonknitters, never fear - you can do this.
In addition to Anne's excellent recommendations (you REALLY should see colorworKAL: Interview with Anne Berk for tips, tricks, and techniques), I've found some other resources online:
In terms of patterns, I had a great time compiling a selection. The first two patterns that popped into my mind, I have to admit, were Anne's lovely multi-size Argyle Sock pattern, from Shibui Argyle:
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| Image copyright Shibui Knits |
There's something so classic about an Argyle (or 'tartan') sock. Then, of course, I have long coveted Eunny Jang's beautiful Deep V Argyle Vest:
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| Image copyright Eunny Jang |
Because it makes Argyle sexy. You can just imagine this on some chic executive in Manhattan. Or I can, anyway.
When I search ravelry, as you'll discover in my interview with Anne, there were over 140 patterns to choose from! Admittedly, some were more appealing to me than others, so I only selected a handful to share and inspire. Strangely, most of them were vests. I honestly don't have a preoccupation with vests, but they do seem to be the vessel for Argyle experimentation these days.
First, the man's Argyle Vest from Veronik Avery's Knitting Classic Style:
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| Image copyright Veronik Avery |
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The design is very graphic in an Atomic Ranch way. Note the lack of diagonal accent lines. It'd be hard to imagine a man turning this down. And, added bonus, no duplicate stitch afterwards!
Next, Ann Budd's Argyle Vest from Color Style:
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| Image copyright Interweave Press |
This design is also extremely striking and quite reminiscent of the Atomic Ranch aesthetic, though it would look super-cute over a button-down blouse and a pair of jeans or slacks. The one concern I'd have would be for beginning intarsia knitters, as Anne correctly warns knitters from starting out with patterns with too many color changes every row. This design has six colors, so it might be for you Intermediate to Advanced Argyle knitters out there.
Finally, I just adore Jenn Jarvis' Argyle Jacket from the Fall 2009 issue of Twist Collective:
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| Image copyright Caroline Bergernon |
This design is entirely modern and would look adorable over a mini-skirt or slacks with a turtleneck, camisole, or blouse. I also think the cut and style are ageless, and would look fabulous on different body types. It could be styled casual or dressy, work or play.
Now, I would include a staff colorworKAL update, but this post is getting quite lengthy. Next week, then! We also have several more interviews to look forward to in the coming weeks. Some of the biggest names in colorwork have signed on to answer our questions, including Ruth Sorensen and Lucy Neatby. If you have any question suggestions for these talented ladies, please feel free to include them in the comments.
Until then, why not try some intarsia?
~ Sara M. Labels: Anne Berk, Argyle, colorwork, colorworKAL, intarsia, knitspired
colorworKAL: Interview with Anne Berk
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| Anne Berk |
Passionate about intarsia and Argyle, Anne is a veritable expert in colorwork techniques. Her booklet, Shibui Argyle, is devoted to restoring a traditional technique by adapting the design to appeal to modern knitters.
Anne's designs and articles have also been featured in Interweave Knits and Piecework Magazine. Knitting Daily TV recently released a Workshop DVD entitled Inside Intarsia with Anne Berk.
I learned to knit in the 6th grade, in 4-H, but didn’t keep it up. I started again when studying in Ireland during my junior year in college. I knit sporadically until my kids started school and I decided to study knitting seriously, and began the TKGA Master Knitting program in 1993.
How did you discover intarsia and Argyle?
Knitting an Argyle sock is a requirement for Level II in the Master knitting program. I knit several socks, as practice, and enjoyed the technique.
What drew you to Argyle, in particular?
I feel a connection to knitters of the past, and Argyle was actually a huge fad after WWII. Legions of people learned to knit for the sole purpose of making something fun and fashionable for a loved one. Argyle patterns are still hugely popular, but they are mainly machine-knit, now. I think that is a shame.
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| Vest from Shibui Argyle |
Do you have a favorite fiber or yarn for intarsia & Argyle?
I like to work with wool, as I can use short lengths and spit-splice them together, reducing the amount of ends to weave in. Any fiber works well, actually. I have knit with cotton, linen, synthetics…they all knit up just fine.
How do you choose yarn weight, fiber, and colors for intarsia & Argyle?
The colors are really important. I look for clear, strong colors with the largest amount of contrast possible, so that the design really “pops”. The weight and fiber used will be dictated by the design and type of garment, not the intarsia technique.
Would you recommend a specific needle type for intarsia & Argyle (i.e. circular vs straight vs dpns)?
I used to use straight needles, so that I could see all of the strands easily, and keep them untangled. As I got better with the technique this became less important, and I would use whatever needles were at hand. Now I am knitting intarsia mostly in the round, so I am moving to circulars almost exclusively. A beginner to the technique will probably find it easiest to get proficient using straight needles.
Do you have any tips & tricks you’d like to share?
Embrace the mess! There are lots of strands, lots of ends – it’s OK. The ends are woven in easily, and they are used to smooth gauge, duplicate stitch over the occasional error, the ends are our friends! Learn to manage the colors and ends with efficiency, and you will have a great time with intarsia.
Do you have any essential advice for new intarsia & Argyle knitters?
Really evaluate the chart you are going to use. Argyle is terrific for beginners because the chart is so easy to follow, and produces a wonderful, recognizable result. Beware of complicated intarsia charts that call for many colors in small amounts in random places. One of the things I teach in class is “Chart critique”, and how to modify a chart to make it easier and efficient to knit. This is supposed to be fun, after all!
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| Pillow from Shibui Argyle |
Are there any essential (or strongly recommended) tools and references for intarsia & Argyle?
“Inside Intarsia” DVD, by Anne Berk, “Intarsia Untangled” DVD, by Lucy Neatby, or take a class on the technique. Intarsia is something that is best learned by being shown, doing it with someone who can help you refine your technique, and practice, practice, practice.
A big bag of yarn in many colors, to play with, is also helpful. I have an enormous paper bag filled with oddball leftovers, that I use when designing – to see what colors work well together, do gauge swatches, etc. It’s my “paintbox” – and is mostly Cascade 220 and Shibui Sock.
Any tips in regards to following an intarsia or Argyle chart?
I am a fan of Post-its. I have lots of other gadgets involving magnets, etc, but the Post-its are always around, and work really well. Put the post-it ABOVE the row you are working on, so that you can see that the stitches are lining up properly over the rows below them.
Don’t forget to count your sts, every few rows. Argyle, in particular, is very rhythmic. You won’t need the chart much, but you will need to make sure that the diamonds are all growing or reducing at the same rate. Problems are easy to fix in the first or 2nd row after you make them, but after that it gets tough.
Do you have a favorite time and/or place to knit?
I knit absolutely everywhere that it is possible, without distracting other people. Intarsia/Argyle is no more difficult that any other type of knitting, and is actually easier to carry around because of the small amounts of yarn involved. I have knit argyle in the movies, it isn’t a problem. My favorite place, though, is on my sofa watching TV. I have my scissors and sewing needles, and lots of yarn right there and handy.
Do you carry ongoing projects with you?
Of course!
Do you carry intarsia & Argyle projects, too?
Of course!
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| Shibui Argyle cover |
Any tips or tricks for keeping them untangled?
I knit with strands of yarn about an arms length long, pulling them out every few rows to untangle. Sometimes I will want a longer length, and will wind it into a yarn butterfly, which is lightweight and doesn’t tangle easily. Intarsia really travels easily.
Do you knit Continental or English? Or Combined?
I knit with either method. I use both for stranded knitting, prefer Continental for needle sizes over size 9 US, and English method for everything else.
Do you have a least favorite technique?
Oh, this is a good question. I’m not crazy about knitting lace. I love having it, though, so I do knit a lot of lace – and it is usually the most complicated chart possible that I fall in love with. I also love lace yarns, so there you go. I do find lace to require more of my attention, this would NOT be carry-around knitting for me. And that would make it my least favorite.
What is a good starter project for intarsia or Argyle?
I have to say the classic Argyle sock. However, the project that I usually recommend for beginner’s is the child’s vest in “Shibui Argyle”. Knit in bouncy Shibui Sock, the stitches look great in intarsia, and the Argyle chart is quite short. The rest of the vest is solid-color stockinette. You get a lot of Argyle impact for very little actual intarsia knitting.
How did you start designing?
Designing was part of Level III of the Master Knitting program, so I got a good foundation. But really, it came out of playing with techniques and coming up with projects for my students to use for practice. I love patterns, and knitting books, and if you read and analyze enough of them, writing your own is the obvious next step.
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| Socks from Shibui Argyle |
What drew you to designing with intarsia & Argyle?
There were none available! When I developed a class on the subject for Sock Summit 2009, I did some research and there was not a modern Argyle pattern – and certainly no charts - to be found, anywhere. Even the vintage patterns from the 1940’s were written poorly by today’s standards and require a lot of assumptions on the part of the knitter. There was obviously a niche to be filled, and I jumped in to fill it.
Do you have a favorite intarsia or Argyle pattern you’ve designed?
The pink cardigan in Shibui Argyle was actually supposed to be a personal sweater for me. I wanted something soft and pretty and Argyle to wear to Sock Summit for my class. By the time I finished the sweater I was planning to do the booklet, and had to keep the projects for it under wraps – so I didn’t wear the sweater, after all! But I really love the sweater, and everyone who sees it, loves it, too. It is “soft like a bunny”, feminine and modern, and a quick knit. (I knit it over a weekend!)
Anything else you’d like to share or mention?
Intarsia takes practice, but once you master the technique the results are truly impressive.
Any added encouragement for our blog readers?
Don’t ever be discouraged by someone else’s “bad” knitting experience. If you can knit and purl, you are a knitter, and you can do anything. Search and explore for the easiest ways to do things, and allow yourself to make mistakes. Before you rip them out, take a really good look at what you did, and why. There is a lot to be learned from mistakes. I played with “Intarsia in the round” for five months before the light bulb went on and I figured out how to do it without any seams. I made lots and lots of mistakes along the way. The reason that I figured it out is that I didn’t give up.
Hopefully Anne's enthusiasm and designs will encourage a new generation of knitters to make Argyle popular. If you'd like to try out this handsome technique, or Argyle in particular, there are many patterns available.
In fact, a search on ravelry revealed 142 pattern matches! So, I hope you will follow Anne's lead and expand your skill set. For knitters looking to learn from Anne in person, Anne will be teaching at Madrona Fiber Arts Winter Retreat in February, 2011.
Check back next week for another interview (with whom will be a surprise) and further updates about our colorworKAL. Until then, happy knitting!
- Sara M. Labels: Anne Berk, Argyle, colorwork, colorworKAL, intarsia, interview
Knitspired: Pouring down rain
Brr, that rain outside is coldcold cold! Daylight Savings is a mixed blessing this far North, making knitting all the more appealing come a cold, dark and above all, wet, evening. While hand-knits are an undeniable essential in the PNWer's wardrobe, I saw the most adorable machine-knit knits that I had to share. It just seemed appropriate... given the weather.
First of all, I hope you've heard of Donna Wilson - the author and designer of the Knitted Odd-Bod Bunch.
A book that, sadly, we cannot keep in stock long enough to put online. It's rather hard to get ahold of. In any event, I recently discovered her personal website via an article on her in The New York Times and have simply fallen in love with these hilarious and quirky cushions:
Don't they seem like the perfect decor for any PNW home? Unfortunately, they're priced rather out of my range (at almost £70 a piece at an impossible exchange rate), but they're lovely to admire. I rather strongly recommend poking around Ms. Wilson's site. It's a fantastic little world that's definitely worth exploring.
Excitement abounds here because we have a brand-new yarn from Joseph Galler. But that is all I shall share. You will have to wait until this Friday's eCard for details.
Searching for relevancy, I managed to track down one other colorworKAL project. Eva, our outstanding web elf, brought in her colorwork hat - which I borrowed for a quick photo:
Eva's making an earflap hat for her father using Rowan Felted Tweed in two colors, Watery and Seafarer, and Rowan Purelife British Sheep Breeds DK in Mid-Brown BFL (#782). It's a shame she didn't have her swatch today, because the finished stitch pattern - featuring double stitched 'eyes' - is just ab fab. Maybe next time.
My mitt is progressing rather slowly as I had to rip out ten or so rounds last night, after realising that I'd started the thumb too late and thrown off the entire design. That was fun. Being much more careful this time around.
Now, in respect to our colorworKAL, we've had some interesting (and good!) developments. I've been emailing back and forth with several experts in the field and am hoping to post several in-depth interviews AND tips and tricks tutorials on the three aforementioned branches: stranded, intarsia, and argyle. Plus, maybe, some history and fun facts. You know how I looove to share the odd trivia.
My question for you is...
You know how I so love to include a poll every week, and this seemed like an opportune time to find out what you want to learn over the next seven weeks. Me? I'm always happy to learn something new and would love to research any of the above topics. If you have a suggestion that, for instance, I totally missed, please feel free to post a comment on this post.
And now it is past 6 o'clock (PM) and I must toddle. This is a bit of a short post, but next week should be very interesting. Especially if I can shoe-horn in an interview before then!
Sara M. Labels: colorworKAL, coworker, knitspired, wip
Knitspired: Laggard
Late again, I know. I'm now off Mondays, so blogging will henceforth be moved to Tuesday/ Wednesday. First off, did you see last week's eCard, Making Mischief? If not, you might have missed our fantastic little Christmas tree creatures... shown on our sad little out-of-season tree:
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| Our 'Charlie Brown' Xmas tree |
And up close and personal:
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| Owen the Christmas Tree Monster |
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| Olive the Christmas Tree Monster |
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| Rufus the Sock Monkey |
I think it goes without saying that they are just stinking adorable. It was such a treat to work with Rebecca Danger on the two Christmas tree monsters - she was a really good sport about our oddities! And, of course, how could any knitter's holiday be complete without hand-knit ornaments?
We do have a debate going, which you're welcome to join in on:
If you picked the last option, the short answer is "It's not".
Next on our list, the knits! We've been busy here. In fact, we've talked ourselves into another knit-along! Yes, that's right, we're challenging ourselves to knit yet another project and we'd like to invite you to join us. Looking at your responses to last week's poll, the forecast is positive in terms of participation.
Now, because this isn't my own personal KAL, it's not going to be quite as r e l a x e d as our Birds of a Feather KAL, so the deadline to complete a project is a little sooner. Here are the specs (and a badge I whipped up in 5 minutes):
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| Join us! |
WHEN: November 1, 2010 - December 31, 2011
WHAT: ANY colorwork project, be it stranded, intarsia, or argyle!
WHO: Anyone!
WHERE: colorworKAL on ravelry
WHY: Why not? Make something awesome for the holidays
Now, I think I can predict your next question: what will we, the instigators, be making? Let's see... I shall be the last person in the universe to make a pair of Anemoi Mittens, by Eunny Jang:
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| Image copyright Eunny Jang |
With Madelinetosh Sock in "Rose" (pale pink) as the CC and The Sanguine Griffon's Eidos Sock in "Parmenides" as the MC (dark green):
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| Anemoi yarn & swatches |
Please pardon the yellow-tinted photo - our office in underground. Also shown are swatches for the Birds of a Feather KAL and my insane attempt to make Guernsey #2 from Arans & Guernseys.
Moving on, both Kristin F. and Lindsay will be making Jared Flood's gorgeous Beaumont Tam:
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| Beaumont Tam by Jared Flood |
And Eva, our intrepid web fulfillment elf, has waffled back and forth between mittens and a hat. I should have the final decision next week, plus some (hopefully better-lit) progress photos of our Shelter sweaters, my Snowbird, and our colorful KAL projects.
What are you going to make?
~ Sara M. Labels: colorworKAL, knitspired
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